Stared of by running the power wire through the firewall. Thanks to the 1 stupid grommet Toyota put there this was pretty difficult. I had to remove the glovebox assembly from the dash, as well as unbolt and push the ECU to the side to get to the back of the grommet. Much to my surprise there was plenty of room under the door sills to run new wire though - they even provided little white eyelets so it could be run with no bulgets in the carpet or anything. Very cool. :)

I had to remove the center dash to install the head unit and run the remote wire and the RCA cables. There is ample room EVERYWHERE in this car, which made it VERY easy. The dash area that they give you around the head unit is almost big enough to install an amp in, so getting the wires to fit wasn't a problem at all.

Another shot of the dash ripped apart. You can also see what's behind the glovebox. Woohoo.

This shot shows the RCAs being run on the drivers side of the car. Again they provided nice little eyelets to run the wires through. I ran into a problem on this side though, since I had to run 4 strands of speaker wire (4 pairs - 8 wires total), plus my two fatty RCAs. I had to be a baller and buy big thick shielded RCA cables, so fitting everything on this side of the car was a tight squeeze. I managed it though and everything snapped back together ok.

Time to rip off the passenger door panel. I installed a set of Diamond Audio 6.5" components in the front doors. Here you can see the 6.5" woofer and the tweeter, both installed in stock locations. After the door panel is put back on you can't tell that this isn't stock. The stock tweeter was glued to its mount so I had to rip it off and JB Weld the new tweeters there. I had to cut the factory midrage speakers out of the mounting base they were molded into (hence destroying them) to mount the new 6.5" woofers.

A close-up shot of the passenger door after the install.

Closeup of the tweeter on the driver door. Sorry it's so blurry.

Closeup of the woofer on the driver door. Again, blurry because I was using my little Sony DSC-P52 point and shoot.

Closeup of the whole driver door assembly. Note that the lock and the door handle both use bicycle break cable type mechanisms to open and lock the door, not solid tortion rods. I thought this was kinda cool. It'd be cheaper to replace them that's for sure.

One last shot of the driver door and the dash (all put back together now). Notice the door over the stereo... I don't have to take my face off because nobody can see what I've got when I'm not in the car. :)

This is where I had to get to the back speakers. The interior panels had to come off, which means that the lower portion of the back seat had to come out to accomplish this. It would have been MUCH easier if I could have taken the top part of the back seat out too, but it's bolted in - they don't use little fast clips like the Hondas do. :( It wasn't too hard though, and it went back on just like it came off - unlike the few Hondas I've had to remove these panels on because of all the little window trim hooks and stuff that always get f'ed up.

Here's a shot of what's behind those panels. This is with the stock speaker shown. I gutted this mounting bracket too, like the speakers in the front, and acidentally busted one of them, so I ended up having to just remove the whole assmebly and screw the speaker directly to the metal subframe that you see around the plastic speaker bracket. No big deal - cordless drill and some sheetmetal screws and it took all of 5 minutes. It's not going anywhere.

Here's another shot. You can see all the wires coming back from the front of the car.

Here's a shot of the interior piece after I cut a hole for the tweeters. The tweeter cups are mounted in a weird way - you install the cup before you pop the tweeter in, and a screw goes through the cup and into a little W shaped bracket that pulls the cup tight to whatever you're mounting it too. The screw is meant to support a lot of configurations and thus is a few inches long. I didn't dremel off extra on these screws on either side so they're hitting something and pushing the tweeter out a little, which you can see in the pic. I've gotta pull the panels off and re-do them so the tweeter pod fits flush to the surface of the grill. PITA.

Here's what it looks like now. I made a little amp rack and drilled out holes for all the wires to come through so everything looks clean. I didn't have any carpet so I painted the whole thing flat black, added a trim piece to the front that mimicks the texture of the material Scion used for the dash, screwed everything down, and called it good. All 4 of my crossovers as well as my 3 amps are mounted on this and it ended up looking pretty good. I didn't count on my sub being as big as it was, since on a Honda it looks much smaller because they've got much more shallow floors than the tCs do, so this is the only way I could position it and still get the hatch to close. It's a tight fit, but it works and the sub, when thrown, doesn't hit the amp rack (although it comes pretty close).

Another shot of the amp rack. You can see more detail here.

Here's a shot of everything with the hatch cover in place. It rests RIGHT on the top of the sub box (couldn't get much tighter fitment wise).

Here's the hatch closed. You can't see anything at all with the hatch cover in place. Nobody's the wiser. ;)